It all began when they put a jar of live shrimps in front of me (see a short video here).
Me: “Am I supposed to eat that alive?”
Waiter: “Yes, just dip them in the brown butter.”
Me: “Whole?”
Waiter: “Well, sometimes I bite the tails off first so they don’t cut my cheek.”
Shock and awe campaign? It was the beginning of one of the best meals I’ve had and it definitely shocked and awed.
Noma, is located in Copenhagen which I’ve been vying to go to for around 2 years now. It finally came together as I was going to Norway to do some hiking. (I made my reservation before all the hubub about being #1 in the world for the record).
The ingredients were fresh. They were unmanipulated. The wine pairings were superb. The meal was exciting, but never over the top. One of my favorite meals of all time!
Then menu:
- An assortment of amuse bouches.
- Dried scallops and watrecress, biodynamic cerelas and beat nut / 2008 Bourgogne Aligote, Fanny Sabre, Bourgogne
- Oyster and the ocean / 2008 Chablis, Pattes Loup, Bourgogne
- Pike perch and ramson leaves, cabbage stems and pickled ramson seeds / 2007 Viré-Clessé ‘Thurissey’, Domaine Sant Barbe (Jean-Marie Chaland), Bourgogne
- Pickled vegetables and bone marrow, herbs and bouillon / NV ’7′ Moins d’alcool, Autant de Plaisir!, Domaine Fontanay (Simon Hawkins), Roanne
- Ox cheek and endive, pickled pear and verbena / 2007 Cornas ‘Brise Cailloux’ (Magnum), Matthieu Barret, Rhone
- Celery and celeriac / 2008 Riesling Auslese, Georg Breuer, Rheingau
- “Gammel dansk” (in ice cream form), milk, and wood sorrel / NV Vin de France ‘Ze Bulle Zero Pointe’, Chateau la Tour Gris (Gourdon), Saumur
There is a lot to talk about here. I will try to break it down by theme instead of dish by dish, which you can see above. I’ve inserted a few pics, but I want you all to know that I ate a portion of the dish usually before snapping a picture.
You can Google around for more of them. Also, I’m certainly skipping over a lot of the meal, so it’s worth checking out the other reviews anyway!
Local to Scandinavia

The overriding theme of the meal to me was the local food of Denmark and Scandinavia. They are very passionate about using Scandinavian ingredients. There were a plethora of greens throughout the meal which they grow/pick themselves. It started right away with a lovely amuse bouche with rose hip “leather” (I think that’s what they called it at least). And wood sorrel is a new favorite of mine now. It made an appearance in the first dish where there was a sauce made from pureed wood sorrel over diferent cereals. It also made an appearance in the desert course… (see below).

There was also the amuse bouche which was in a plant pot. Inside of it was edible “dirt” (I can’t remember what exactly it was) with freshasparagus bits and radishes from their garden. There was also a green cream that tied everything together (literally). Crunch and delicious!
Of course everyone is local these days, so why the hubub about it? Well, I think that part of the reason the whole meal was so interesting is because they are ingredients and methods that we don’t often get exposed to. It was very much Scandinavian in style. Although most Scandinavians can’t cook that well. So I think part of the greatness of it is that they are taking an area which is not traditionally known for it’s amazing food, then using it’s ingredients and methods to make something amazing.
Simplicity

All the dishes had a great simplicity to them. You don’t need to manipulate ingredients to be creative. The pickled vegetables was a very simple dish, but beautiful, delicious, and interesting! It featured lots of local plants which were scattered over the dish. The sauce had a simple, but satisfying bouillon sauce.
Wine
I’ll be honest, I’ve been kind of down about wine pairings lately. Most recently I think it was L2O (which I love still). My friend convinced me afterward we would have been better off ordering a great bottle of wine which we knew was good. I am not looking for anything particularly inventive or challenging, just something that is beautiful and enhances the food.
Noma reminded me why wine pairings can be amazing. It started with the Oyster and the Pattes Loup Chablis. The minerality and the salinity of the dish and the wine were perfect together. Then the full, rich, beautiful Viré-Clessé ‘Thurissey’ with the perch. And what is with everyone and Georg Breuer lately? I managed to have his wines at Noma, Credo (Trondheim, Norway), and my friend’s parent’s farm in Molde, Norway. Enjoyed him every time.
Desert

There deserts were inventive. Perhaps the most challenging dish in the whole meal was the celery and celeriac dish. It was a desert. Made from celery. The food geek in in me was provoked. It was light, refreshing, and mildly sweet. It was interesting, however, it’s something I don’t ever feel the need to eat more than once.
There was also an ice cream made from Gammel Dansk, a Danish liquor. It has wedges of dried milk and wood sorrel on it. Vegetables? On ice cream? I was skeptical, but I loved it!
It was great to finish up the meal with deserts which were light and not overly sweet. It showed great finesse and respect for the arc of the meal.
Staff and experience
One thing that struck me about eating at Noma was the staff. Sometimes, when I go to a top tier restaurant, it can feel quite stuffy and the staff a little robotic. At NOMA this is not so. They are passionate, friendly, and relaxed. I spoke to numerous staff members for a quite a bit and the chef for maybe 30 minutes. It was nice that they weren’t in any way caught up in themselves. It shows you can be passionate about food, but not annoying about it. I think they’re probably helped somewhat by being off the beaten path. In NY or whatnot I can see how one can quickly grow jaded with a certain type of customer. Perhaps there are less of them that are able to make it to Denmark.
There was a funny spot somewhere midway through the meal where one of the staff came up to me and said, “so you have a blog?” Surprised, I asked how they knew. Seems the Google every single person who comes to their restaurant (I asked if that results in any different treatment, and like the good restaurant they are, they said “no.”) I don’t consider myself a food blogger and I told them as much. I just write these things so I can explain how great the meal was to all my friends!
Conclusion
Noma is a great achievement in the world of food. Questions: when can I go back? Who wants to come this time?